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IFSC Climbing World Championships Held in Japan for the First Time Heated Competition Ahead of 2020
The "IFSC Climbing World Championships 2019 Hachioji," Japan's first hosting of the event (Organizer: International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) / Sponsors: Earth Pharmaceutical, Japan Airlines, KDDI, Hisamitsu Pharmaceutical, Red Bull, TANAKA Holdings), took place from August 11th to 21st at the Esforta Arena Hachioji in Tokyo. (IFSC = International Federation of Sport Climbing)
Sport climbing, adopted as an additional event for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, saw fierce competition at the championships with approximately 260 top athletes from 39 countries and regions, including Japan.
From Japan, six top female athletes, including world-ranked athletes Moe Nonaka and Kei Noguchi, and eight top male athletes, including Tomoa Narasaki and Keita Doi, competed.
The competition featured three events: "Bouldering" (competing to see how many problems set on walls under 5 meters high can be completed within a time limit; reaching the top hold with both hands completes the problem), "Lead" (competing to see how high a problem set on a wall over 12 meters high, with up to about 60 holds, can be climbed within a time limit while secured by a rope, with the height reached being the score), and "Speed" (two athletes climb adjacent identical routes [standard worldwide] on a 15-meter wall, competing on who climbs faster). Additionally, the "Combined" event was held for both men and women, where one athlete competes in all three disciplines sequentially, with the overall results determining the winner.
The Combined event drew particular attention as it will be an official event at the Tokyo Olympics.
On the 20th, when the women's combined final took place, the venue was packed with spectators. Eight athletes who had advanced from the qualifiers (including four Japanese competitors) battled it out in the three-event combined competition.
In the speed event, two athletes start simultaneously, making the outcome clear. However, some athletes slip off the holds while leading, creating a mix of cheers and gasps from the crowd as the race to the top happens in the blink of an eye.
In bouldering, each athlete attempts three problems (three different wall types) in sequence. Athletes are allowed observation time before the event to scout the routes and discuss strategies.
The walls featured overhanging sections, making completion exceptionally challenging. When athletes found themselves in difficult positions, loud cheers from the crowd pushed them forward. Noguchi was the only competitor to clear two problems, securing first place in this event.
Fifteen-year-old Aya Moriaki, competing first in the final lead event, climbed the 15-meter wall flawlessly, drawing the loudest cheers of the day. Noguchi also put up a strong fight, reaching just one hold from the top.
The combined event ranking is determined by multiplying the rankings from the three disciplines; the lower the total score, the higher the ranking.
The winner was Slovenia's Janja Garnbret. She boasts overwhelming strength, having achieved the first perfect sweep victory in World Cup history in bouldering in 2019. Noguchi took second place, securing her spot on the Japanese national team for the Tokyo Olympics. Third place went to Great Britain's Shauna Coxsey.
In the men's combined final held on the last day, Toma Narasaki brilliantly won the gold medal, securing his spot at the Tokyo Olympics alongside Noguchi.
The venue featured various creative elements: projection mapping and musical performances, live commentary and analysis that energized the crowd and encouraged cheering, and audience participation games held between events.
The number of climbing gyms in Japan has increased approximately fivefold over the past decade since 2008, reaching over 480 locations. The global climbing community is estimated to have around 25 million enthusiasts. With high expectations for Japan's performance at the 2020 Olympics, climbing appears to be a particularly noteworthy sport within the urban sports category.
Official Tournament Website: https://jmsca-itadaki.com/s/n93w/
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