2020 Test Event "READY STEADY TOKYO" Sports Climbing Held
(Image = © Fort Kishimoto)
Initially planned with athlete participation, the event was canceled and instead conducted by staff from the Organizing Committee and other organizations. The park is a temporary venue set up in the Aomi area, close to the Athletes' Village, and will host 3x3 basketball and sports climbing events.
Sports climbing consists of three disciplines: "Speed," "Bouldering," and "Lead." At the Tokyo Games, athletes will compete based on the combined results of all three disciplines, giving an advantage to those with superior overall skills.
The Speed course is standardized worldwide at 15 meters high. Two athletes, equipped with safety ropes, start simultaneously and compete for the fastest time to the top. Winning times are around 5-6 seconds for men and 7-8 seconds for women, meaning the outcome is decided in an instant.
Bouldering involves competing to see how far athletes can climb a challenging, approximately 4-meter-high course within a 4-minute time limit. Holding the topmost hold with both hands constitutes a "complete ascent." The highlight is watching athletes clear overhanging walls using their entire bodies in positions that seem impossible.
Lead climbing involves competing to see how far athletes can ascend a wall over 15 meters tall within a 6-minute time limit. For safety, athletes clip a rope into quickdraws (rope-holding devices) as they climb. Clipping the rope into the top quickdraw constitutes a "topout."
For both bouldering and lead climbing, observing other competitors' attempts provides significant reference. Therefore, the "onsight format" is used, where competitors cannot watch others climb before attempting the route themselves. Competitors are isolated before the event and given only a few minutes to inspect the route immediately before their start.
Traditionally, European athletes have dominated the top ranks, but in recent years, competitors from Asia and North America have also strengthened their capabilities. Japan boasts many strong contenders, particularly in bouldering. On the men's side, notable athletes include Tomoa Narasaki, Akira Akechi, Kai Harada, and Kai Fujii. On the women's side, Kei Noguchi leads the bouldering world, while young talents like Moe Nonaka and Futaba Ito are also gaining attention.
Reference article "IFSC Climbing World Championships":
https://dentsu-ho.com/articles/6799
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