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Everyone, when you go to Ueno (Taito Ward, Tokyo), what do you eat? There are plenty of delicious things, but how about "tonkatsu"?

As the name suggests, it's a pork cutlet ( Côtelette ). Originally, "cutlet" (Côtelette in French) referred to "back meat with the rib bone attached," meaning a dish similar to what we now call pork sauté, cooked by frying in butter. Inspired by Japanese tempura, Ginza's "Renga-tei" added the technique of deep-frying. Who exactly named it "tonkatsu" remains unclear—some say Ponchiken in Okachimachi, others suggest Rakuten in Ueno. What's certain is that by the early Showa era, it had become a wildly popular menu item in this area. That's likely why, even today, renowned establishments like the "Big Three Tonkatsu Restaurants" line the streets. When you're in Ueno, tonkatsu is the way to go.

Matsuzakaya Ueno has witnessed this history up close. Since transforming from a kimono shop in 1907, this renowned department store has upheld its legacy. Recently, its South Wing was renovated, and the long-established wagyu wholesaler Kojima Shoten opened its first permanent "Bento & Prepared Foods" shop there.

We've collaborated with Kojima Shoten before on developing the wagyu brand "Yukifuri Wagyu Obana-sawa," the Ginza Mitsukoshi butcher shop "Kataba San," and the "Chop Katsu" minced cutlet sold at events. Each time, we believe we succeeded in creating distinctive products and services under a clear concept. So, what should we do for this "Bento & Side Dishes" shop?

The concept our team shared was "Maximizing Meat Concentration." The idea was to let customers feel, after eating, "Ah, I really had my fill of meat!" without worrying about menu balance.

Take the "Bone-in BBQ Bento" series. The "Veal" version features grilled shoulder loin, rolled steak, and the key element: a big, juicy bone-in spare rib that's perfect for eating with your hands. It's not just about "a lot of meat"; we want customers to experience "I really ate my fill of veal!" – a meat they might not encounter often. (There are also "Bone-in Chicken" and "Bone-in Pork" versions.)

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For instance, we considered using the butcher shop's original name, "Kojima Shoten," for the restaurant. But to emphasize the "meat density," we settled on "Niku Oroshi Kojima" (Meat Wholesaler Kojima). Art Director Hideyuki Tanaka created a logo that instantly conveys this concept.

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For instance, we've also prepared the "Meat Wholesaler's Pork Cutlet Sandwich" in our lineup. It started as a whimsical idea: "Isn't tonkatsu breading basically bread? So if we make a cutlet sandwich where thin breading and thin bread become one, wouldn't that create a 'meat-concentration-max' tonkatsu, like a 'handheld tonkatsu'?" The chef team relentlessly prototyped without compromise, and finally, it turned out like this.

カツサンド

Taking on the tonkatsu challenge in Ueno's town is all about Mr. Kojima's passion. While freshly fried tonkatsu at a specialty shop is exceptional, challenging ourselves to create a "new value" that tastes great even when cold holds significant meaning.

We also prepared other items like the "Double Beef Hamburger Steak Bento," where you eat meat with meat sauce, and the ultimate beef curry, the "President's <Wagyu> Beef Curry Bento," which Mr. Kojima created simply because he "absolutely wanted to eat it himself!" (laughs).

In fact, it took less than three months from project launch to release. Even after the shop opens, we must keep finding ways to increase the "meat concentration" even more. There's still plenty of room for improvement based on customer feedback. That said, we've come this far believing in our "hypothesis": maximizing "meat concentration" to delight our "meat-loving" customers.

If you can arrange a bulk order within Tokyo (excluding some areas), we can discuss delivery. Please stop by if you're in the neighborhood.

Enjoy!

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Author

Sōo Yamada

Sōo Yamada

Dentsu Inc.

Meiji Gakuin University Part-time Lecturer (Business Administration) Using "concept quality management" as its core technique, this approach addresses everything from advertising campaigns and TV program production to new product/business development and revitalizing existing businesses and organizations—all through a unique "indwelling" style that immerses itself in the client's environment. Founder of the consulting service "Indwelling Creators." Served as a juror at the 2009 Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity (Media category), among other roles. Recipient of numerous awards. His books, "The Textbook of Ideas: Dentsu Inc.'s Circular Thinking" and "How to Create Concepts: Dentsu Inc.'s Ideation Methods Useful for Product Development" (both published by Asahi Shimbun Publications), have been translated and published overseas (in English, Thai, and the former also in Korean).

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