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The "Good JAPAN Innovation" project, themed "Traditional Crafts × Design," brings together Japan's finest craftsmanship and Dentsu Inc. art directors to create collaborative works, sharing new value globally. The fourth installment of traditional crafts features Ainu patterns from Hokkaido.

The Ainu culture had no written language. What if it had? What if it had a common language? Communication back then might have been different, or perhaps new forms of communication would have emerged. I, Kawamura, held this thought and decided to create a font using Ainu patterns. This is the result.

アイヌ文様を使って文字を作る


Nobuko Tsuda, who collaborated on this project, is an Ainu culture researcher. She studies the origins of Ainu patterns through their actual reproduction and creation via embroidery.

The Origin of Ainu Patterns

The Ainu believed evil spirits and disease could enter through the hems of clothing or the openings of sleeves. Ainu patterns, therefore, seem to have been "evil-warding" measures, featuring designs like chains or thorns applied to clothing to prevent this. While the patterns and clothing shapes evolved over regions and eras, the lack of a written language means the designs and techniques remain partially unexplored, with various theories existing.

アイヌ文様の衣装
Ainu Patterned Clothing


How were patterns composed in an era without rulers or writing implements?

They folded the cloth in half, creased it, and repeatedly marked the crease with thread. They then connected these marks to form the pattern. Even curves were created by connecting the diagonals of squares made from these marks with rounded segments. The rest was measured by hand. Using these thread marks as a rough draft, they then applied the actual patterns.

Types and Designs of Ainu Patterns

Embroidery techniques also varied, including Rūnpe, Chijiri, and Kaparamipu.

左からルウンペ、チヂリ、カパラミプ
From left: Rūnpe, Chijiri, Kaparamipu


This time, with advice from Tsuda-san, we concluded that Rūnpe might be the most suitable technique for creating the font.

Rumpé involves placing strips of fabric cut into tape-like pieces, sewing them down, and then embroidering over them. Curves are achieved by bending the tape without cutting it. The meaning of "Rumpé" is said to be "Ru (path) Un (to have/possess) Pe (thing)".

「Q」の曲線も布を曲げながら作りました。
The curve of the "Q" was also created by bending the fabric.


Ainu patterns feature unique stitches and shapes like Ikari ("I" meaning "that," "Ka" meaning "top," "Rari" meaning "to press"), Kirau ("corner"), and Oho ("to chain stitch"), which are fascinating. Following this approach, I incorporated these characteristics into each letter.

角に出ているのがキラウ、真ん中の線がイカラリ、赤く太く見える線がオホ。
The protruding corners represent kiriau, the central line is ikarari, and the thick red line is oho.


If you're interested, look up terms like Chijiri and Kaparamipu.
As for the design, there seem to be rules, or maybe not. I designed it while learning from Mr. Tsuda, but naturally, much of it is intuitive. For someone like me who tried it on a whim, it was still far beyond my understanding.

Actually sewing it

Mr. Tsuda also taught me the embroidery techniques. I had learned a bit from Tsuda-san's published books, but learning directly from her was much clearer. She also taught me things not written in the books, like "You can also do it this way." I put that into practice, but paying attention to things like how even the stitches were made turned it into such meticulous work that hours flew by instantly. My shoulders got so stiff, I've never felt this kind of stiffness before (laugh). The concentration of the Ainu people who did this on the scale of clothing is incredible.

縫製の仕方を教わる。

Learning sewing techniques.

Ainu patterns evolved over generations, passed from mother to child, developing curves and other changes. It's truly a shame that today we can only recreate them. I pray this fine traditional craft isn't lost.

Thank you, Tsuda Meiko, for teaching me so much about Ainu history, patterns, and various other things.

 

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Author

Tsuda Meiko

Tsuda Meiko

Born in Mukawa Town, Hokkaido, in 1945. Served as a curator at the Hokkaido Ainu Comprehensive Center, researching Ainu patterns through actual production.

Shihō Kawamura

Shihō Kawamura

Dentsu Inc.

Joined the company in 2006. Primarily handles graphic design, planning and production from mass media to events and overall promotions.

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